Most London seafood restaurants are expensive. This one isn't, probably because it's located in unfashionable Earl's Court. Because of its friendly waiters and generous, affordably priced set menus , it draws a large repeat business from local residents. Popular, fresh dishes are concocted from squid, prawns, lobster, clams, oysters, and fish. The freshness of the seafood will make you think you've arrived just as the fish boats have come into a Breton port. We're fond of the braised Scottish salmon with fresh vegetables, or the catch of the day poached to perfection and served with a velvet-smooth garlic-laced mayonnaise that's evocative of the aïoli served in the French Riviera. Tables spill out onto the sidewalk whenever the weather is fair, which a waiter facetiously suggested, "is at least on ten days a year in London."