If you walk past the sex boutiques of Soho, you'll stumble upon this real discovery. The restaurant's consultant is TV chef Ed Baines, an ex-Armani model who turned this former butcher shop into a cool, hip champagne-and-oyster bar. It's an ideal place to take a lover for a "Sex in the City" type of meal and some champagne or a bottle of wine. You're never rushed here. The impressive display of the night's shellfish goodies will lure you inside. Chances are you won't be disappointed. Loch Fyne oysters, lobster with chips, garlic langoustines, pan-fried fresh scallops -- the parade of seafood we've sampled here has in each case been genuinely excellent. The fish soup is the best in Soho. You might want to sample one of the hors d'oeuvres such as delightful Japanese-style fish cakes or fresh Cornish crab. Yes, lotto winners can get their fix of Sevruga caviar here. For anyone who would prefer to eat meat (although we don't know why they would, considering the great seafood here), there is a limited array of dishes such as a perfectly spit-roasted chicken flavored with fresh herbs. The lemon tart with crème fraîche rounds off a perfect meal.