Harrods remains an institution, but in the last decade or so it has grown increasingly dowdy and is not as cutting edge as it used to be. For the latest trends, shop elsewhere. We always stop here anyway during our visits to London. As entrenched in English life as Buckingham Palace and the Ascot Races, it's still an elaborate emporium. Goods are spread across 300 departments, and the range, variety, and quality can still dazzle the visiting out-of-towner.

The whole fifth floor is devoted to sports and leisure, with a wide range of equipment and attire. Toy Kingdom is on the fourth floor, along with children's wear. The Egyptian Hall, on the ground floor, sells crystal from Lalique and Baccarat, plus porcelain.

There's also a men's grooming room, a jewelry department, and a fashion department for younger customers. You have a choice of 18 restaurants and bars. Best of all are the Food Halls, with a huge variety of foods and several cafes. Harrods began as a grocer in 1849, and that's still the heart of the business. The motto remains, "If you can eat or drink it, you'll find it at Harrods."