If you should land here, in a section of the island that Bermudians call "the country," you'll dine with the locals, many of whom maintain (with some justification) that this is the best place for "an authentic taste of Bermuda." Black House Tavern looks like a private home -- dusty rose with green shutters and a glassed-in porch in the rear that looks over Smith's Sound. Over the years, the tavern has attracted many celebrities; some diners arrive in yachts.

You can begin your meal with curried conch stew, shark hash (made with minced puppy shark), fish chowder, or curried mussels. Other choices include sandwiches, burgers, and platters of fish and chips, or chicken and chips. The chef also prepares good sirloin steak. If your luck holds, the only Bermuda Triangle you'll encounter is Black Horse's delicious drink -- pineapple juice, orange juice, black rum, and Bermuda gold liqueur. This place is more of a conventional restaurant than the equally famous Dennis's Hideaway .