Dennis Lamb, a burly St. David's islander, is one of the treasures of Bermuda. So is his quaint little restaurant, in the island's easternmost parish. As you approach (by land or sea), you're likely to see Dennis working in his garden in front -- he grows cabbage for coleslaw and beets for pickling, among other things. He'll show you into his fisher's cottage, situated by one of the island's little coves. Inside, you might feel as if you've left Bermuda and are visiting a pocket-size country with its own distinctive personality.

Descended from whalers and pilots ("wooden ships and iron men"), Dennis is now retired. His son, "Seaegg," will offer you dishes that have virtually disappeared from Bermuda's restaurants and are normally available only in private homes. For $34, you get "the works": an array of dishes, including conch stew, mahimahi, herb-flavored shark hash, shrimp, conch fritters -- you name it (but please don't order the turtle, an endangered species). If you don't want to eat so much, ask for the $17 fish dinner.

We recommend Dennis's Hideaway only to the adventurous. The offbeat, informal ambience isn't for everyone. Some readers give it high marks and say they've made at least 20 pilgrimages here; others feel that we shouldn't send diners to "this grubby place." You may bring your own wine. Don't dress up.