Monsoon is more famous for its award-winning interior design than for its food. That's a pity, because, while the brown-on-black Zen-like setting and the fabulously flattering lighting are easy on the eye, the cooking is subtly sensual. Sophisticated palates are familiar with Thai, Chinese, Japanese, and Indian flavors, but it's unusual to find them so seductively intertwined with North American staples -- take for example the exquisite beef tenderloin in a Cabernet-teriyaki reduction that is teamed up with wasabi mashed potatoes. The wine list runs the gamut from French Bordeaux to Australian shiraz.