This Annex mainstay keeps packing 'em in, drawing a crowd of regulars and a sprinkling of celebrities. The Spralja family has a show-biz history (chef Joso was half of the folk-singing duo of Malka and Joso, who appeared on The Tonight Show), which may explain the theatricality of the surroundings. The two-story house is crammed with art depicting the female form in all its naked glory. Tables are inches apart, foiling intimate conversation but letting you get to know your neighbors. Fresh seafood is carted to your table for inspection, then returned to the kitchen for cooking. There is also a selection of pastas, such as delightful spaghettini al Leonardo, which combines shrimp, octopus, and capers. Desserts range from jam-filled crepes to sorbets.