This is one of Toronto's prime training grounds for up-and-coming young chefs. The food is for gourmets, though the prices are comparatively low. That explains the presence of earnest artsy types and casual boomers in the small, saffron-walled dining room. The menu changes frequently, keeping as its mainstays Italian pastas and Mediterranean meat dishes, and ranging into Asia, too. For a starter, the herbed goat cheese and cumin phyllo pastry is a delicious choice. Main courses include oven-roasted Atlantic salmon with jasmine rice and sun-dried fruit. Service is well intentioned though occasionally clunky. The California-dominated wine list is as reasonably priced as the food.