I feel terrible: For years I've hoped that Mark McEwan, the excellent chef behind North 44 -- one of my favorite restaurants in any city -- would open a restaurant in downtown Toronto. Now that he has, I can hardly believe my disappointment. While the food here is very good and the design is subtly beautiful, the service is lacking and the atmosphere is abominable. If you don't mind your very expensive meal being disrupted repeatedly by drunken louts in suits at the neighboring tables, you've found your restaurant! This is one of the hot see-and-be-seen spots of the moment, and, if you're determined to stop in, take my advice and bypass Bymark's dining room for its bar.