This is my favorite among the Toronto restaurants that opened in 2003. Named for a 1920s French photographer -- his black-and-white prints adorn the walls -- Brassaii offers a picture-perfect setting. The long, cavernous dining room is decorated in dusky grey and black, and tall vases stand in the windows, each holding a single long-stemmed calla lily. The effect feels much like being inside a photograph, and the flattering lighting from the halogen spotlights that hang from the ceiling only enhance this image. Still, on King Street West these days, everyone looks cool (Eau, Blowfish, and others). But Brassaii still manages to stand out by offering both excellent cooking and brilliant service -- and doing so for prices that are lower than most of its competition in the area. The kitchen really knows its stuff. While the menu frequently changes, it might include entrees such as braised duck atop lentils and spinach, or shoulder of lamb with chickpeas and tomato. The desserts are not to be missed, particularly the elegant apple crumble with berries and caramel ice cream. The wine list is substantial, and there are some very good vintages available by the glass. Still, my favorite drink here is the Brassaii martini, which blends a couple of types of fruit juice with 7-Up and vodka. I know it sounds bizarre, but it's a deliciously sweet drink.

One more thing: Also unlike its competition, Brassaii is open for breakfast, lunch and dinner. Bon appétit, indeed.