In only 7 minutes, an 800-passenger ferry takes you to 245 hectares (612 acres) of island parkland crisscrossed by shaded paths and quiet waterways -- a glorious spot to walk, play tennis, bike, feed the ducks, putter around in boats, picnic, or lap up the sun. Of the 14 islands, the two major ones are Centre Island and Ward's Island. The first is the most popular with tourists; Ward's is more residential (about 600 people live in modest cottages on the islands). Originally, the land was a peninsula, but in the mid-1800s a series of storms shattered the finger of land into islands.

On Centre Island, families enjoy Centreville (tel. 416/203-0405), an old-fashioned amusement park that's been in business since 1966. You won't see the usual neon signs, shrill hawkers, and greasy hot-dog stands. Instead you'll find a turn-of-the-century village complete with a Main Street, tiny shops, a firehouse, and the Far Enough Farm, where the kids can pet lambs, chicks and other barnyard animals. The kids will also love trying out the antique cars, fire engines, old-fashioned train, authentic 1890s carousel, flume ride, and aerial cars. An all-day ride pass costs C$16 (US$11) for those less than 124cm (49 in.) tall, C$22 (US$15) for those over 1.25m (4 ft.). Centreville is open from 10:30am to 6pm, daily from mid-May to Labour Day, and weekends in early May and September.