Given its popularity and its location in this heavily touristed quarter, Gibby's is routinely dismissed as an overpriced snare for out-of-towners. That opinion is now closer to the truth, since they eliminated lunch and jacked up their prices a few years ago. Still, it's a handsome place, a 2-centuries-old stone-and-beam setting that's much larger than it looks from the outside. And if your taste buds cry out for a break from the novelties of fusion cookery, then this is your place. Everything comes in strapping portions -- cuts of beef and lamb rear 2 inches off the plate and slabs of fish are as wide as a catcher's mitt. Soup or salad is included in the price of the main course. Grilling is usually precise and to order, and there are up to a dozen daily choices of fresh fish. In warm weather, there's a beverage-only terrace in back.