Toqué! is a gem that has single-handedly raised the gastronomic expectations of the entire city. A meal here is virtually obligatory for anyone who admires superb food, dazzlingly presented. "Postnouvelle" might be an apt description for the creations of Normand Laprise and Christine Lamarche, for while presentations are eye-opening, the portions are quite sufficient and the singular combinations of ingredients are intensely flavorful. Asian and related fusion influences are more evident these days, but the chefs still work within the parameters of the French contemporary kitchen. Top-of-the-bin ingredients, some of them rarely seen in combination -- for example, creamy cauliflower soup studded with chunks of foie gras -- ensure that the menu is never set in stone. Consider just one recent dish: roasted bas-du-fleuve saddle of lamb joined by a lentil compote moistened with juices of the meat and served with a combination of butternut squash, cipollini onion, carrots, Jerusalem artichoke, and wilted bok choy. Duck, veal, quail, and venison are unfailingly memorable, while salmon and Arctic char are often the most delectable fish.

If you choose the tasting menu, the six courses are accompanied by wines selected to complement each preparation. The restaurant fills up later than most, with prosperous-looking men in suits and women who sparkle at throat and wrist, so while there is no stated dress code, you'll want to look your best. Service is efficient, helpful, and not a bit self-important. Allow 2 hours for dinner. Call at least 3 days ahead for reservations and confirm the night before. They open for lunch Monday through Friday during the 2 weeks before Christmas.