With its high ceiling laced with electric fans and heating ducts, Buona Notte could be in New York's SoHo. A principal component of the decor is the collection of nearly 500 plates painted by celebrity diners, among them George Clooney, Jim Carrey, and Nicolas Cage. They are boxed (the plates, that is) and arrayed along the walls. Funk and hip-hop thump over the stereo, and the attractive waitresses look ready to depart on the next fashion shoot. They appear in black (with splashes of carefree gray), as do most of their customers, all with cellphones at the ready. Although the food takes second place to the preening, the dishes are surprisingly worthwhile. Pastas prevail, tumbled with crunchy vegetables or silky walnut sauce or any of 10 or more other combinations. The kitchen exhibits less reliance on meat than the norm. Service is stretched thin at dinner, especially on the weekends, and the noise level cranks up after 7pm. The active bar in back stays open until 3am.

If the velvet rope is up at Buona Notte, there are several other similar spots on the half block from here to Sherbrooke, including Mediterraneo (3500 bd. St-Laurent; tel. 514/844-0027), Primadonna (3479 bd. St-Laurent, tel. 514/282-6644), and Globe (3455 bd. St-Laurent, tel. 514/284-3823).