In the brasserie tradition, this place opens for breakfast and doesn't shut down until late. Drop by and stay a while. Have a coffee, write a poem, peruse Le Monde, dig through a full four courses. It's a place to hang out. That isn't to say it hasn't kept up with the times. There's bouillabaisse (a must), salmon tartare, and lamb Provençal on the menu, but someone in charge apparently thinks fusion ideas and healthy living are important, too. That conviction shows up in Chilean sea bass laid over a comforter of mixed vegetables, and in the quail infused with a peppery honey-soy marinade and set upon a nest of greens. A fireplace blazes much of the year in the upstairs room. In warm weather, the front is opened up. Service can be uneven -- attentive at first, then fading into distraction.