The bagel wars flare as hotly as Montréal's eternal smoked-meat battles, but this, an offshoot of a beloved old bakery, is easily among the top contenders. Bagels in these parts are thinner, smaller, and crustier than the bloated, cottony monsters posing as the real thing in most parts of the republic south of the border. These are hand-rolled, twist-flipped into circles, dusted with sesame seeds or whatever, and baked in big wood-fired ovens right on premises. Try them in or take them out. Sandwiches come with soup or salad. Expect a short wait on weekends and not infrequently during the week.