No obvious sign announces the presence of this restaurant, only its name discreetly spelled out in white tiles in the sidewalk. There's no need to call attention to itself, since tout Montréal knows exactly where it is. While there are no table d'hôte menus, the food is fairly priced for such an eternally busy place and costs the same at midnight as at noon. After a substantial starter like bone marrow with coarse salt or a potted chicken pâté, you may opt for one of the lighter main courses, such as the ravioli maison, round pasta pockets filled with a flavorful mixture of beef, pork, and veal. Larger appetites might step up to the full-flavored duck breast with chewy chanterelles in a sauce with the scent of deep woods. Or simply stop by for a croque monsieur or a bagel with smoked salmon and cream cheese. Although reservations are usually necessary for tables, single diners can often find a seat at the zinc-topped bar, where meals are also served. Breakfast is served from 8 to 11:30am.