"Boris" is the owner's dog, depicted in the restaurant logo as a canine sophisticate in a turtleneck. Putting aside questions of Gallic relationships with their pets, this hugely popular eatery takes full advantage of the excitement of the western end of Vieux-Montréal, opposite the new Cité Multimédia. Although not much work has gone into the interior (a minimalist environment with a bare concrete floor, beams, and exposed vents), the staff and patrons transform the restaurant into a lighthearted space. The hallmarks here are very reasonable prices and such bistro classics as blanquette de veau, bouillabaisse, salmon tartare, and mussels du jour. Don't pass up the super frites with mayo, so good they appear as a stand-alone appetizer. If it's nice outside, head straight for the courtyard and tables that seat 160 under big square patio umbrellas.