There have been sushi bars in Montréal since the 1970s, when the fad hit North America, but there weren't many. Now, for no obvious reasons, the enthusiasm for artfully configured raw fish has experienced a volcanic eruption, with establishments sprouting on every other block. This one is profiting from the rage and may even have contributed to its rise. Authenticity helps -- the three or four chefs on duty behind the bar are Japanese. There are tables, but if you're alone, a seat at the black marble counter provides the amusement of the chefs at work as well as the possibility of conversation with neighbors. The menu has a bewildering number of choices. Descriptions are in French and English, but asking the waiter's advice is a good idea, especially if you don't qualify as a sushi master. He will probably recommend the omakase (chef's choice) plate (C$35/US$25), consisting of 13 separate items. If you order on your own, keep in mind that the bill can mount quickly, even at an average of about C$5 (US$3.55) per item.