Thai restaurants abound in the city, but Vietnamese tastes are more difficult to find. The chef-owner here worked in France to learn French culinary techniques, but he was already accomplished at Southeast Asian cooking. His menu includes 17 starters and salads and 35 main courses. Those, and his additional daily specials, are uniformly appetizing, fresh-tasting, and healthful. Do begin with one of the soups -- the light duck consommé with young bamboo shoots is a winner -- and share a plate of various rolls combining beef with lemon grass, or crab and shrimp, or mixed vegetables, all wrapped in glistening rice-flour wrappers. Main courses often utilize caramelized sauces, as with Tôm Rim (shrimp) and Thit Heo Kho Rim (pork). With only a few tables, this place is busiest in the evening.