The tiny, hard-to-find cafe is worth the effort -- a visit here will reward you with exceptional traditional Mexican cuisine and a whimsical crash course in contemporary culture. The small room is covered wall-to-wall and table-to-table with photographs, paintings, movie posters, and news clippings about the cultural icons of Mexico. Frida Kahlo figures prominently in the decor, and a special menu duplicates dishes she and husband Diego Rivera prepared for guests.

Specialties from all over Mexico include divine chiles en nogada (poblanos stuffed with ground beef, pine nuts, and raisins, topped with sweet cream sauce and served cold), intricate chicken mole from Puebla, and hearty carne en su jugo (steak in its juice). In addition, the vegetarian menu is probably the most diverse and tasty in town (the owner offers cooking classes for groups of four or more). This is not the place for an intimate conversation, however -- the poor acoustics cause everyone's conversations to blend together, although generally what you're hearing from adjacent tables are raves about the food. Also, this is a nonsmoking restaurant -- the only one I'm aware of in town.