Of the country French bistros in town, Pastis usually takes a back seat to the ultrahip, celebrity-frequented Mimosa, which happens to be just a block away. But locals and regulars often prefer this rustic yet civilized spot, named for the licorice-flavored liqueur. Intimate and friendly, with sidewalk tables and a warmly ocher-toned dining room, Pastis manages to be both elegant and the kind of place you can scrape your chair, raise your voice, or drink a little too much wine. Distinctive menu selections include curly endive salad with bacon and poached-egg garnish, wine-braised rabbit, and Marseilles-style seafood bouillabaisse. For chocolate lovers: Dessert is chocolat pot au crème, a beautiful thick custard served in rustic glazed pots.