Open for more than 30 years, family operated Yang Chow is one of Downtown's more popular Chinese restaurants. It's not the dining room's bland and functional decor that accrues accolades; what makes Yang Chow so popular is an interesting menu of seafood specialties complementing well-done Chinese standards. After covering the Mandarin and Szechwan basics -- sweet-and-sour pork, shrimp with broccoli, moo shu chicken -- the kitchen leaps into high gear, concocting adventurous dishes such as spicy Dungeness crab, slippery shrimp, a tangy and hot sautéed squid, and sautéed shellfish with a pungent hoisin-based dipping sauce. The key to having a terrific meal is to first order the house specialty -- plump steamed pork dumplings presented on a bed of fresh spinach -- then ask for recommendations from your server.