There are no fewer than four Ethiopian eateries along 2 compact blocks of Fairfax, but our favorite is Nyala; it's one of the larger ones, and probably the most popular. In a mellow setting -- all earthen colors, tribal prints, and African music -- an ethnically mixed crowd finds common ground in the expertly-spiced (smoldering, rather than fiery) cuisine. For the uninitiated, Ethiopian food is a mosaic of chopped salads, chunky stews, and saucy vegetables, all served on a colorful enamel platter for communal enjoyment. There are no utensils, merely a basket of injera, the thick, sour, plate-size pancake that triples as utensil, plate, and bread. Choices range from hearty chicken or lamb chunks stewed with tomatoes and onions to a parade of vegetarian choices (lentils, chickpeas, greens), each with a distinctive marinade. African beers and honey wine are perfect accompaniments.