An Embarcadero fine-dining bastion since 1966, the former Anthony's Star of the Sea Room slumbered through the 1990s, the subject of mournful disdain by the city's emerging foodies. But, a millennium makeover banished its stuffy, outmoded aura to the past, and the restaurant reopened with a new look, new chef, and new name (to better differentiate it from the unexceptional waterfront fish houses next door, also in the Anthony's restaurant family). Gone is that dated dress code and off-putting formality, replaced by a comfortable ambience and modern decor matched to the still-glorious harbor view.

The focus here is on the fine dining, though: Executive chef Brian Johnston imbues the menu with sophisticated touches that show he's in touch with today's gourmands. The menu is seasonally composed; representative dishes include grilled baquetta (sea bass) with wild mushrooms and white truffle risotto, and New Zealand John Dory with fennel pollen, lemon caper brown butter, and parsnip purée. There are always a few offerings for carnivores like a Black Angus rib-eye or boneless beef short ribs, but otherwise, smart diners stick to the always-fresh seafood delights. There's a reasonably priced wine list and a welcoming bar with its own abbreviated menu.