If you need a steak but don't want to get caught up with the Gaslamp's roster of pricey chophouses and also don't want to settle for one of those chain eateries, Fat City is a your place. Overlook the vaguely scary name (the owner's name is Tom Fat) and the overly vivid hot-pink paint job (the building is vintage Art Deco), and settle in to one of the cushy booths, with Tiffany lamps hovering overhead. You can skip the skimpy list of appetizers since the entrees come with a potato side, and specials on the blackboard throw in a salad for a couple bucks more. The steaks are USDA Choice, aged 21 days and grilled to order over mesquite charcoal. Better yet, aim for the USDA Prime top sirloin: A hunky 12-ounce cut is just $14, and miles ahead in flavor of what you get at a Black Angus-type joint. For those who haven't signed on to the Atkins regimen, you'll also find teriyaki salmon, brandy-marinated chicken, and a couple pasta dishes. I haven't tried those--I come here for the steaks and haven't found a reason to look farther down the menu.