Located 34 miles north of San Diego, outside of Escondido, this terrific "zoo of the future" will transport you to the African plains and other faraway landscapes. Originally established as a breeding facility for the San Diego Zoo (the Zoological Society oversees both operations), the 1,800-acre Wild Animal Park now holds around 3,500 animals representing 430 different species--many of them endangered. Approximately 650 animals are born every year in the park. What makes the Wild Animal Park unique is that many of the animals roam freely in vast enclosures, allowing giraffes to interact with antelopes, much as they would in Africa. You'll find the largest crash of rhinos at any zoological facility in the world; a wonderful exhibit for the critically endangered California condor; and a mature landscape of exotic vegetation from many corners of the globe. You can stroll through an epiphyllum house, a bonsai pavilion and protea garden, and then purchase the unusual species to take home from the Plant Trader shop. Although the San Diego Zoo may be world famous, it is the Wild Animal Park that many visitors celebrate as their favorite. To me, they are both essential components of the San Diego experience; to maximize your enjoyment see the zoo first, then make the trek to the Wild Animal Park a few days later. If you have a good zoo at home and have only one day for animals in San Diego, go for the Wild Animal Park, an experience which is all but unduplicated anywhere else.

The central focus of the park is the 5-mile Wgasa Bush Line Railway, a 60-minute monorail ride that's included in the price of admission. Trains leave every 10 minutes or so from the station, and lines build up by late morning--make this your first or last attraction of the day (the animals are more active anyway), and for the best views, sit on the right-hand side. The monorail passes through areas designated as East Africa, South Africa, Asian Plains, and the Asian Waterhole, through swaying grasses and along rocky outcrops. A pair of binoculars is handy to have along since many of the animals can be hundreds of feet away, but the monorail is meant to give you an experience of the open plains and wildlife diversity, not the up-close experience of a traditional zoo.

The monorail is the signature attraction of the park, but you'll find other rewarding exhibits. There are several excellent, self-guided walking tours: the 1 3/4-mile Kilimanjaro Safari Walk, which visits the Australian rainforest and the fringe of East Africa; the Heart of Africa, a 3/4-mile trail that winds through a 32-acre wilderness with varied habitats (dense forest, flourishing wetlands, sprawling savannas, and open plains) to a cheetah overlook and a giraffe-feeding station; and the 1/4-mile round-trip hike to Condor Ridge, which ascends past 13 rare or endangered North American species, including the fabulously ugly California condor.

Nairobi Village is the commercial hub of the park, but even here are interesting animal exhibits, including the nursery area, where irresistible young 'uns can be seen frolicking, being bottle-fed, and sleeping; a petting station; the lowland gorillas; and the South American Aviary. There are amphitheaters for a bird show and another featuring elephants, scheduled two or three times daily. Within Nairobi Village are souvenir stores, and several spots for mediocre dining. Visitors should be prepared for sunny, often downright hot weather. It's not unusual for temperatures to be 5 to 10 degrees warmer here than in San Diego--sunscreen, a hat, and light clothing are always a good idea.

If you really want to get up close and personal with the animals, take one of the park's Photo Caravans, which shuttles groups of eight in flatbed trucks out into the open areas that are not accessible to the general public. In my experience, the photos are secondary to the sheer enjoyment of crossing the fence to meet the rhinos, ostriches, zebras, and deer on their home turf, even getting nose-to-nose with giraffes along the way--it's not quite as dramatic as a real African safari, but it ranks pretty high. There are two different itineraries available, each 1 3/4 hours long, or you can take both trips with a 30-minute break in between--either way you'll want to make reservations in advance by calling tel. 619/718-3050. The price is $99 per person for one caravan, or $145 for both (park admission included); children must be at least 8 years old, and ages 8 to 17 must be accompanied by an adult.

Things That Go Bump in the Night

The Wild Animal Park's Roar & Snore program, which runs every Friday, Saturday, and Sunday from April to October, lets you camp out next to the animal compound and observe the nocturnal movements of rhinos, lions, and other creatures. The park provides all the equipment, including a cookout dinner and a pancake breakfast. You'll check in at 4pm and go for a guided sunset hike; after dinner, sit around the campfire listening to tales of animal behavior punctuated by the extraordinary animal calls emanating from dark corners of the park. After breakfast in the morning (sorry, no showers), you'll take a dawn hike through the Heart of Africa, and then spend the day enjoying the rest of the park. The 1-night camp-overs are $126 for adults, $106 for kids 8 to 11; children under 8 are not permitted, and campers under 18 must accompanied by an adult. To request Roar & Snore information by mail or to make reservations, call tel. 619/718-3050. Don't forget your sleeping bag!