While this seafood restaurant is hands-down the most whimsical in its stunning oceanic decor, the high price tag and fine, but not mind-blowing, food make it a better cocktail-and-appetizer or lunch stop than dinner choice. The multimillion-dollar attraction's outrageous decor follows the "coastal" cuisine theme; hand-blown jellyfish lamps, kelp bed-like backlit columns, glass clamshells, sea-urchin light fixtures, a sea-life mosaic floor, and a tentacle-encircled bar set the scene. (Thankfully, designer Pat Kuleto's impressive renovation of the 1924 building left the original Gothic arches intact.)

Executive chef Mark Franz, who opened the once-famous restaurant Stars with Jeremiah Tower, orchestrates the cuisine. He offers starters ranging from the expected (a variety of very expensive oysters) to the more ambitious (seared breast of squab with roasted foie gras, leg confit raviolo, and rhubarb chutney). While most main courses (the menu changes daily and seasonally) stick with the seaside theme, meat and game eaters have a few decadent options. The whimsy-meets-sophistication extends only as far as the food -- the service and wine lists (more than 400 by the bottle; 30 by the glass) are seriously professional. This place has been quite the scene since it opened in mid-1997, so reserve well in advance. I suggest stopping by for lunch. The food is good, but on my last visit, it was not outstanding. For seafood, Aqua is worlds better.