Newly revamped after a kitchen fire, Fleur de Lys remains the city's most traditionally formal classic French affair. Draped in 700 yards of rich patterned fabric mood-lit with dim French candelabras, and accented with the city's most extraordinary sculptural floral centerpiece, it's a romantic spot, so long as your way of wooing includes dressing up. Equally formal is the cuisine of chef Hubert Keller (former President Clinton's first guest chef at the White House), who is usually in the kitchen preparing the menus (and allegedly watching closed-circuit TV scenes of the dining room to ensure all goes smoothly). Diners in favor of grazing should start with the "Symphony" appetizer, a sort of culinary medley with bite-size samplings of foie gras terrine, sea scallop cake, and lobster gelée. Other sure things include radicchio-wrapped salmon with canellini beans and Banyuls vinegar and olive oil; and lamb loin with spiced honey, caramelized cumin seed sauce, and mint oil. The selection of 675 French and California wines is also impressive.