One of the city's veteran contenders for best French restaurant underwent major changes in early 2001, including a new chef and updated interior. Executive chef Ron Siegel, who presided over Charles Nob Hill until Masa's made an offer he couldn't refuse (great money and a customized kitchen), deftly designs three-, six-, and nine-course tasting menus within an almost startlingly trendy (think hotelier Ian Schrager) room. Fortunately, beyond the small, minimalist bar and illuminated white curtains, one thing has remained the same: a dedication to culinary excellence. Amuses-bouches (French for "amuse the mouth" and equivalent to free little treats from the chef) abound the minute the attentive French waiter appears, and the delights continue in the form of a delicate appetizer of seared scallops elevated both literally and figuratively by microgreens and a dab of decadent uni (sea urchin) and a savory entrée of skate balanced atop a short-rib ravioli, all of which is bathed in a mushroom jus. During my latest visit, dessert was too precious and far better to look at than to eat. But the candy cart, which is wheeled by so you may select lollipops, chocolates, and mini cookies, almost makes up for it.