After systematic retrofitting and a face-lift in spring 2002, Kuleto's is back in business as one of downtown's Italian darlings. The best plan of action is to skip the wait for a table, muscle a seat at the antipasto bar, and fill up on appetizers, which are often better than the entrees. For a main course, try penne pasta drenched in tangy lamb-sausage marinara sauce, clam linguine (generously overloaded with fresh clams), or any of the fresh-fish specials grilled over hardwoods. If you don't arrive by 6pm, expect to wait -- this place fills up fast.