It figures that it would take a French chef to make Greek food fabulous, and executive chef Jean Alberti, the mastermind behind the moussaka, does exactly that. In truth, there are few restaurants I continually like as much as Kokkari (Ko-car-ee). The love affair begins with the setting: a beautifully rustic living room-like dining area with a commanding fireplace and oversize furnishings. Past the tiny bar, the other main room is pure rustic romance with exposed wood beams, pretty standing lamps, and a view of the glass-enclosed private dining room. Then there are chef Alberti's traditional Aegean dishes, which are stunning, fresh, and flavorful. Start with pikilia, a sampling of traditional Greek spreads served with dolmades. Or try the wonderful baby octopus salad or plate of giant white beans. There are excellent soups and salads, too, but try not to overindulge before the main courses, which include to-die-for moussaka (eggplant, lamb, potato, and béchamel); and phenomenal quail stuffed with winter greens served on oven-roasted leeks, orzo, and wild rice pilafi. Take my advice and don't leave without sinking your fork into whichever chocolate dessert they're featuring; you'll thank me later.