If you're looking for a good, cheap meal in North Beach -- or anywhere else in town, for that matter -- this San Francisco chain can't be beat. There can be a short wait for a table, but after you're seated, you'll be surprised at how promptly you're served. Every dish is fresh and sizable and, best of all, costs a third of what you'd pay elsewhere. Winners include spaghetti frutti di mare made with calamari, mussels, scallops, tomato, garlic, and wine; and genelli pollo, with roast chicken, sun-dried tomatoes, cream, mushrooms, and Parmesan -- both under $8. When I don't feel like cooking, I often stop here for angel-hair pasta with tomato and basil and a decadent spinach salad with candied walnuts and bleu cheese. The tiramisu is huge, delicious, and cheap, too.