When I'm in the mood for a good meal without hoopla, I head directly to bistrolike Florio. Not only because the staff is friendly; not only because they don't take reservations and it's almost always painless to get a table or dine at the bar; and not even because the place is personal enough to not force quick turnover. The real reason is that I'm addicted to the chicken liver paté, roasted chicken, steak frites, and virtually every other comfort dish that makes its way to the table. The wines by the glass (and by the bottle) tend to disappoint, but I don't care. I pull up a chair, make myself at home, and enjoy casual and cozy surroundings and consistently satisfying food. I suggest you do the same.