Wildly popular among San Francisco's style-setters, this small, 55-seat Cow Hollow restaurant, with a hint of whimsical Shakespearian decor, is one of the neighborhood's most "in" places to dine. That's partly because it's affiliated with the Getty clan (as in J. Paul) and sweetheart supervisor Gavin Newsom, and partly because everything old is new again since chef James Ormsby took over the kitchen for Keith Luce (who departed to open his own spot, Merenda, a few blocks away).

Ormsby is a local favorite who's hopscotched through the city's kitchens over the past few years. But with a three-and-a-half-star rating from the Chronicle, he's likely to stay put, which means diners can be treated to his beloved signature dishes such as mini-cones of ahi tartare enlivened with horseradish, lime, capers, and caviar; decadent wild mushroom risotto; and rich red-wine braised oxtail. The extraordinarily extensive California wine list -- gleaned from the PlumpJack wine shop down the street -- is sold at next to retail prices, with many wines available by the glass.