Sure, it's contrived, touristy, and nowhere near healthy, but when you get that urge for a chocolate shake and banana cream pie at the stroke of midnight -- or when you want to entertain the kids -- no other place in the city comes through like Mel's Diner. Modeled after a classic 1950s diner, right down to the jukebox at each table, Mel's harks back to the halcyon days when cholesterol and fried foods didn't jab your guilty conscience with every greasy, wonderful bite. Too bad the prices don't reflect the '50s; a burger with fries and a Coke runs about $8.

There's another Mel's at 3355 Geary St., at Stanyan Street (tel. 415/387-2244); it's open from 6am to 3am Thursday through Saturday.