Jardinière is a pre- and post-symphony favorite, and it also happens to be the perfect setting for a cocktail. A culinary dream team runs the sexy dining room: owner-chef Traci Des Jardins, who packed up her pots and pans at Rubicon to go solo, and owner-designer Pat Kuleto, who created the swank ambience. On most evenings, the two-story brick structure is abuzz with an older crowd (including Mayor Brown, a regular) that sips cocktails at the centerpiece mahogany bar or watches the scene discreetly from the circular balcony. The restaurant's champagne theme extends to twinkling lights and fun ice buckets built into the balcony railing, making the atmosphere conducive to throwing back a few in the best of style -- especially when there's live jazz (at 7:30pm nightly).

Actually, cocktailing is my preferred reason to visit Jardinière. True, the daily changing menu is lovely; it might include seared scallops with truffled potatoes and truffle reduction, sautéed petrale sole with Alsatian cabbage and Riesling sauce, or venison with celery root, red wine, braised cabbage, and juniper sauce. But the atmosphere just doesn't have enough warmth for me. Still, anyone in search of a quality meal will not be disappointed. I also have to give kudos to the outstanding cheese selection and great wine list -- many by the glass, and over 300 bottles.