Still one of San Francisco's better restaurants for the money over a decade after opening, Fringale -- colloquial French for "sudden urge to eat" -- has enjoyed a waiting list since the day chef and co-owner Gerald Hirigoyen opened this small bistro. Sponged, eggshell-blue walls and muted sand-and-earth tones provide a serene dining environment, which is all but shattered when the 18-table room fills with Hirigoyen's fans. For starters, try steamed mussels with shallots, parsley, and lemon; or roasted quail with apple risotto and foie gras. Among the 10 courses on the seasonally changing menu, you might find rack of lamb with potato gratin, or pork tenderloin confit with cabbage and onion and apple marmalade. Desserts are worth savoring, too, particularly the gateau Basque (which has won me many culinary friends since I began preparing it myself, with the help of Hirigoyen's cookbook). The mostly French waiters provide charming service, and prices are surprisingly reasonable for such high-quality cuisine.