This place is so chic that it's hard to believe it's a San Francisco restaurant, and it's so well hidden on Mission Street that it eludes me every time I seek the valet. An indoor seat is a lovely place to watch San Francisco's most fashionable. Outdoors (heated, partially covered, but still chilly), the enormous foreign film showing on the side of an adjoining building steals the show. (Although the actual purpose of dining here is not to watch the film, it's still a bummer for those facing away from it.) In 2001, husband-and-wife team John Clark and Gayle Pirie stepped into the kitchen and are now creating a fine Mediterranean menu. Snackers like me find solace in oysters, a devilish brandade (fish purée) gratin, and the cheese selections. Heartier eaters can opt for roasted half-chicken with golden chanterelle and red mustard-green risotto; or grilled Meyer Ranch natural tri-tip with Tuscan-style beans and rosemary-fried peppercorn sauce. Truth be told, even if the food wasn't good, I'd come here. It's just that cool. By the way, if you have to wait for your table, consider stepping next door to the adjoining bar, Lazslo's.