Unpretentious warehouse-chic atmosphere, reasonable prices, and chef/co-owner Craig Stoll's ultrafresh seasonal Italian cuisine have made this family-owned restaurant one of the city's most cherished. Stoll, who was one of Food & Wine's Best New Chefs in 2001, changes the menu daily, while his wife Annie works the front of the house (when she's not being a mom). Standards include Niman Ranch flat-iron steak with french fries, and roasted chicken with Yukon Gold mashed potatoes and shiitake mushrooms. The winter menu might include slow-roasted pork shoulder or gnocchi with squash and chestnuts, while spring indulgences can include sand dabs with frisée, fingerling potatoes, and lemon-caper butter, or lamb with polenta and sweet peas. Trust me -- order the buttermilk panna cotta (custard). A plus: Four tables and counter seating are reserved for walk-in diners. A downside: It's impossible to find parking -- literally -- and there's no valet. Cocktail alert: Wine and beer only.