One of the sharpest rooms in the neighborhood, the colorful Firewood put its money in the essentials and eliminated extra overhead. There are no waiters or waitresses; everyone orders at the counter and then relaxes at the single family-style table, at one of the small tables facing the huge street-side windows, or in the cheery back dining room. Management didn't skimp on the cozy-chic atmosphere and inspired but limited menu: The fresh salads come with a choice of three "fixin's," ranging from caramelized onions to spiced walnuts, and three gourmet dressing options. Then there are the pastas -- three tortellini selections, such as roasted chicken and mortadella -- and gourmet pizzas. Or how about herb-roasted half or whole chicken ($7.25 or $14, respectively) with roasted new potatoes? Wines cost $4.50 to $5.50 by the glass and a reasonable $18 to $21 per bottle. Draft and bottled beers are also available, and desserts top off at $2.95. (Thank goodness someone realized that $7 for an after-dinner treat borders on ridiculous.)