My mother and I call this unintimidating, cozy, intimate French restaurant "the house of foie gras." Why? Because on our first visit, virtually every dish overflowed with the ultrarich delicacy. But in truth, there's more to chef Roland Passot's fantastic menu. Like what? Melt-in-your-mouth starters such as roast quail and -- drum roll, please -- foie gras with salad, wild mushrooms, and roasted garlic. Generous main courses include rôti of quail and squab stuffed with wild mushrooms and wrapped in crispy potato strings; and roast venison with vegetables, quince, and huckleberry sauce. The country French decor is tasteful but not too serious, with whimsical chandeliers and a cloudy sky painted overhead. The staff is friendly, knowledgeable, and accommodating, and the food is outstanding. Best of all, the environment is relaxed, comfortable, and very neighborhoody. Finish with any of the delectable desserts, and when you're done, you're sure to loosen your belt a few notches.