Banking on the trend toward lighter, healthier cooking, chef Eric Tucker and his band of merry waiters set out to prove that a meatless menu doesn't mean you have to sacrifice taste. In a narrow, handsome, Parisian-style dining room with checkered tile flooring, French windows, and sponge-painted walls, Millennium has had nothing but favorable reviews for its egg-, butter-, and dairy-free creations since the day it opened. Favorites include sweet-and-spicy plantain torte served over a wonderful papaya and black-bean salsa appetizer, and main courses such as the phyllo purse stuffed with mushrooms, root vegetables, and almond-baked tofu with creamy garlic and corn pudding, or pan-seared black rice risotto cakes stuffed with black Himalayan truffle "butter" over a sherried parsnip and parsley root purée with roasted winter squash, sweet peppers, exotic mushrooms, and sorrel coulis. Even the wine-and-beer list has a good selection of organic labels.