Caribbean cowboy chef Johnny Vinczenz has returned Astor Place to its original chic-chuck-wagon glory, whipping his chef's lasso into an epicurean frenzy with signature dishes straight from the American-Caribbean heartland: wild-mushroom pancake short stack with balsamic syrup, Jamaican jerk veal tenderloin, and wasabi skillet-seared tuna steak. Portions are huge and often enough for two to share. Appetizers are also generous in size, popular among the many lightweight model types who frequent the place. Desserts are glorious; chocoholics will be in heaven with the Cuarto de Chocolates featuring flourless chocolate cake, a chocolate dome, and peanut-butter chocolate bars. Sunday's Gospel Brunch is the ideal way to pay penance for your sins of the night before, but beware: The live gospel music is LOUD! Comfortable booths and soothing lighting give way to a scene that's reminiscent of a Hollywood movie premiere. Beware of whiplash-inducing situations, especially on weekend nights. Sitting in the booth next to you at any time could be Cameron Diaz, Oliver Stone, or Neve Campbell, among other luminaries for whom the food is comfort enough against the scene-sucking gawkers. Note: At press time, Astor Place was closed for renovations. Call before going to see if they've reopened (and to see whether or not they changed their menu).