Tucked into a storefront across Marietta Street from Georgia Tech, Thelma's is not a fancy place, but it's where you want to head for a typical Southern meal--fast becoming an endangered species in this increasingly cosmopolitan city. There are plastic tablecloths on the tables, and the general ambience is that of a grade-school cafeteria. But this is fried chicken as it was meant to be. Not mass-produced stuff that's more crust than bird, but big meaty pieces with just the right seasoning in the crispy skin. Chicken is the most popular dish, but there's also country-fried steak, barbecued ribs, fried or baked fish, and Brunswick stew, as well as different daily specials. A typical meal of two pieces of white-meat fried chicken, two vegetables, and corn bread costs $9. On the high end is rib-eye steak for $12.

A fresh vegetable plate is $4 for three veggies and cornbread. You'll find the likes of collard greens, black-eyed peas, rutabagas, steamed carrots, green beans, okra, and other vegetables, depending on the season. Sweet-potato soufflé or macaroni and cheese (a vegetable in the South) are $1.75 each. For dessert, try the coconut pie or banana pudding. There are Southern-style breakfasts here, too.