Situated in an unlikely spot--a strip shopping center with a hardware store on one side and a five-and-dime on the other--is one of the city's finest Italian restaurants. It's upscale, hearty, New York-Italian both in ambience and cuisine. Owner Nico Petrucci himself is likely to greet you as a long-lost friend, and the rest of the staff will smother you with attention. You'll want to dress up and ask for one of the flower-decked banquettes, a perfect spot for a special occasion. It's also a great vantage point from which to watch all the goings-on in the main dining area.

Fresh pastas are a specialty, and all of them are excellent. If lobster fra diavalo is a special, don't pass it up. The Thursday night special is osso buco with saffron risotto, but if you call a day ahead, the chef will prepare it for you any day of the week. In fact, if you don't see exactly what you want on the menu, just ask. Special requests are seen as a challenge rather than an inconvenience, especially if there's a little advance notice. Traditional dessert favorites are tiramisu and rich New York-style cheesecake, but there's plenty more to choose from on the dessert cart. The award-winning selection of Italian wines is one of the best in the city. If Abruzzi is too much for your budget, try Pasta Vino, an ultra-casual outpost run by Petrucci's son, Billy, in the same shopping center.