Well-heeled Atlantans consider this place, which has been on the scene since 1979, a kind of posh private club. And very posh it is, especially since a recent renovation turned it into a stylish Art Deco space that evokes 1940s sophistication. It's set in a shopping center just down the sidewalk from an Ace Hardware, but it's still one of the most special restaurants in town.

Everything is excellent, and the service is smooth as silk. Dinner might begin with smoked salmon, accompanied by a potato pancake and minced onions, and continue with crisply battered lobster tail with Chinese honey mustard (a signature dish). In season, the soft-shell crabs, lightly battered and sautéed crisp, are a succulent treat. If you don't see what you want on the menu, just ask; the staff will make every effort to prepare something that will tempt you. Desserts are as lush as the surroundings, and the wine list is excellent. A new 4-course prix-fixe menu is available Monday to Thursday featuring selections created daily by Chef Gary Donlick for $42.