When Bacchanalia abandoned the cozy warmth of its pleasantly informal Buckhead cottage for a former meatpacking plant on the outskirts of an industrial area, some fans were nervous that it wouldn't survive in its new locale. But the edgier, airier, more sophisticated space hits just the right note, plus the food is better than ever, and now Bacchanalia has spread the joy by opening for lunch as well as dinner.

Owner-chefs Anne Quatrano and Cliff Harrison, who consistently win reams of accolades, serve a prix-fixe menu at both meals--three courses at lunch, four at dinner, with ample, excellent options in each course. The emphasis here is on using locally produced natural and organic ingredients whenever possible, from farmstead cheeses to heirloom tomatoes to Georgia blackberries. Everything is absolutely the freshest, and perfectly prepared. The blue crab fritter appetizer with avocado, citrus, and Thai pepper essence is a signature dish, a plump, sweet all-lump crab cake that is not to be missed, regardless of whatever else you choose from the menu. Fish is done especially well, and you might find seared Virginia striped bass or a delicately sautéed turbot. The dinner menu will also include meat and game, and perhaps a pasta, such as the goat cheese raviolis that are often on the summer list. A long-time dessert favorite is the warm Valrhona chocolate cake with vanilla bean ice cream, a flourless concoction that oozes a puddle of richness from its gooey middle. The American wine list is overflowing with excellent choices, and there's a full bar now, too. Service is smooth and professional, but it's also warm, inviting, and remarkably free of attitude.

This is one of the best restaurants in town, and reservations are difficult to come by, especially on the weekend. Reservations are taken up to a month in advance, so when planning a trip to Atlanta, this should be one of the first phone calls you make. When you come to Bacchanalia, be sure to save time for browsing Star Provisions, the upscale cook's market on the premises. Stocked with excellent meats, seafood, cheeses, wine, pastries, tableware, cookbooks, and other cooking accessories, it's worth a separate trip.