Part of an Atlanta-based group with restaurants throughout the country, Houston's serves up lavish portions of fresh, top-quality fare. It's always packed with people looking for an exciting but informal spot, with service as snappy as the food. There's almost always a wait, but you won't mind spending time on the front patio or in the bar. If you're in a rush, eat at the bar during lunch. The patio, across from Lenox Square, is a terrific people-watching spot.

Thick, hickory-grilled burgers are a specialty, as are the tender, meaty ribs, served with a choice of side dishes: skillet beans, fries, coleslaw, or couscous. The same fixings come with barbecued chicken. A lighter main course is the salad of sliced grilled chicken, tossed with chopped greens and julienned tortilla strips in a honey-lime vinaigrette, garnished with a light peanut sauce. For dessert, you can indulge in a huge, chewy brownie topped with vanilla ice cream and Kahlúa.

There are several locations around town, including one in Buckhead at 2166 Peachtree Rd. (at Colonial Homes Dr. in the Brookwood Square Shopping Center), tel. 404/351-2442.