Funky and festive, La Fonda is a brightly painted little hole-in-the-wall consisting of a small interior dining area with an open kitchen, a covered outdoor patio, and an open-air rooftop patio with seating in wooden booths amid lots of plants. Outdoor areas are heated in winter and cooled by large fans in summer.

The food is both fresh and refreshingly authentic. You might simply order up a bottle of vino blanco and a delicious ensalada mixta (tuna, black olives, lettuce, onions, and peppers in a classic vinaigrette that you can soak up with Cuban bread). There are several different kinds of quesadillas, and three types of paella--traditional, seafood, and vegetarian. The Latin sandwiches are served on crusty Cuban bread, and the chicken is nicely grilled and served with rice and beans. Try a creamy, homemade flan for dessert.

Note: La Fonda has two other locations; the most convenient for visitors is in Little Five Points at 1150B Euclid Ave., off Colquitt Avenue (tel. 404/577-8317).